Troubleshooting: I'm not getting good henna color.

There are so many factors in getting a good henna stain, that it's easy to overlook something. These are the most common reasons for light henna color.

1. The henna at the very tip of the cone will often leave a light stain.

- Solution: Squeeze out the first half-inch of henna and knead the cone well to ensure even consistency. Separation can occur due to shipping or freezing and will affect both color and texture.

2. You are using a lot of hand sanitizer (I know I am!).

- Cause: Hand sanitizer affects henna oxidation and contains alcohol which is drying. This can be an issue both before applying henna and when using hand sanitizer on your henna stain.
- Solution: Wash hands thoroughly with plain soap and water before applying henna. If you must use hand sanitizer, use a light coating and be sure that is is completely dry before applying henna. Avoid hand sanitizer until the henna stain fully develops. Moisturize your henna daily with a non-exfoliating moisturizer like coconut oil.

3. The skin was not clean and oil-free when the henna was applied.

- Cause: Residual lotions, sweat, or hair products act as barriers to the henna skin bond. Self tanner can block henna completely.
- Solution: Clean the skin with soap, water, and/or rubbing alcohol before applying henna. Keep in mind self tanner will affect your henna stain. Make note: body butters, sunscreens, and other really deep moisturizers can take a couple days to clear out of the skin cells.

4. The henna paste was not left on the skin long enough.

- Solution: Leave henna on the skin for at least four hours to ensure optimal staining. I ask my brides to leave the henna on overnight!

5. The henna stain has not fully oxidized yet.

Four hands at different developments of a henna stain.

- Cause: Henna stain hasn't had enough time to fully develop. It typically takes 2-3 days to reach full color.
- Solution: Wait 2-3 days after paste removal to judge stain color. Avoid exfoliation during this time.

6. The henna was removed from the skin with water.

- Cause: Water stunts the oxidation process.
- Solution: Do not remove the paste using water, and avoid water after henna removal. Gently scrape off paste without water and avoid water on the stain for as long as possible. Stubborn bits of henna paste can be removed by soaking the paste with coconut or olive oil.

7. Your body was not warm enough while the henna was on the skin.

- Cause: Cold skin reduces surface area of cells for staining. When you are warm, your skin cells expand because they are trying to release heat. When you are cold, they contract because they are trying to hold in heat. This means when you are warm there is more surface area to stain and more room for the dye in the henna molecules to bond with the keratin in the skin cells.
- Solution: Ensure warmth during henna application and while the paste is on the skin. I find that staying warm for the first day of the stain developing can help as well.

8. The henna is being exfoliated/rubbed away.

- Cause: Constant friction removes henna. For example, if I henna my wrist (where I normally wear my watch), the color never really gets dark and fades quickly. This is common when doing henna on the feet where sandal straps or shoes rub.
- Solution: Apply henna to areas less prone to rubbing.

9. The henna paste was not stored properly and the dye has demised.

- Cause: Henna paste loses potency if not stored properly. If henna paste is not being actively used, it should be frozen. While at room temperature, henna paste continues to release dye. At some point, all the dye will be released and the henna will leave very light stain for no stain at all. The warmer it is, the quicker the henna dye will demise.
- Solution: Keep unused henna frozen to preserve dye potency.

10. You are hennaing a part of the body that does not stain well.

- Cause: Some body parts stain better than others. Palms of the hands and soles of the feet take henna best and the further away from these areas you go, the lighter your stain. You can see this in hand designs where the fingers are super dark and the skin above the wrist is substantially lighter. This is normal and a matter of henna and body chemistry. Chest, neck, face, and torsos all can stain poorly.
- Solution: Experiment with different body parts to understand staining variations.

11. You used premixed henna instead of mixing the henna yourself.

- Cause: Premixed henna may not yield stains as dark as mixing your own henna fresh.
- Solution: Mix your own henna from our fresh henna powder (I suggest our ORa henna) with quality essential oils for darker stains. BONUS! Mixing your own henna allows for you to control the texture!

12. Mixing your own henna, but looking for a darker stain?

- Solution: Increase oil ratio for darker stains. Use a ratio of 30 mL high quality essential oils that are high in terps to 100 grams of henna powder. Pay attention to dye release so you are getting the very best color. Learn more about essential oils and henna paste here.

13. The henna paste has not released dye yet.

- Cause: If you mix henna and use it right away, you will NOT get color. Dye release can take some time, especially if it's cold. Though it's possible to over-release or over-cook your henna, it's more likely that the henna paste was not left out long enough to release all its dye, especially if it is cold.

This is assuming you mixed your henna with lemon juice. If you mixed it with water it releases dye much quicker and dye demise also happens much quicker. Water mixes are more prone to over-cooking your henna paste.

Don't underestimate the role ambient temperature can play in dye release. Be sure henna is not in the path of an air vent. Even a few degrees too cold can add hours to your normal dye release time. 
- Solution: Allow sufficient time for dye release before application. Try to keep the ambient temperature stable.

14. Your body chemistry, hormones, or medications can cause light stains.

- Cause: Medications, diets, and hormones can all affect how henna will stain your skin. We've seen evidence of both isotretinoin and chemo drugs effecting stain color, but this depends on the individual. Hormone changes either by nature or supplements can affect your henna stain. Some people experience vastly different results depending on their cycle. I've even seen vitamins effect people's stains.
- Solution: Be aware that medications, diets, hormones, or body chemistry can influence stain color.